Before visiting our friends at Podere, Ruggere, Corsini we stopped in Castiglione Falletto and tasted at Livie Fontana Winery. Livie is the 8th generation to operate the cellar and make the wine (1820). They make the typical wines-and more-from the Langhe region. That would be Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, Barbera, Barolo. Spent a little time wandering around the sights in Barolo and then on to Montforte d’Alba (where we actually caught an exhibition of Chagall etchings) to catch up with Lolly and Nicola at their winery.
We wanted to take them out for dinner, but Lolly insisted on having some friends over and dinner at their house. Very interesting group of people. Hannah and Henrik, a couple from Denmark, who live in Montforte part time and two friends from Torino, Phillipo and Roberto. Roberto is a nurse and Phillipo a medical equipment facilitator. They go into 3rd world and war-torn countries and set up temporary hospitals to treat people with diseases and wounds from the afflictions of war. They have been to Iraq, Afghanistan, Syria, areas of the Congo and soon to South Sudan. Their work is akin to “Doctors’ Without Borders”. We wished them good health and safe travels-they will surely need it. Was really a lovely evening, filled with travel stories, remembrances, much laughter, good food-and, oh yes-wine! Ci piace tanto i nostri amici! (We enjoy our friends so much!)
Because we are in Piemonte, the capital of the Slow Food Movement, we have been exploring the meaning and the towns where this started. Carlo Petrini and a group of activists founded the movement, in the 1980’s. Initially, it was to defend regional traditions, good food and a slow pace of life-along with gastronomic pleasures. Today, it has become a global movement, involving projects such as fair trade, sharing agricultural information and traditions, sharing the connections between plate, planet, people and culture. The Langhe and Roero regions are UNESCO Heritage areas and the communes involving the SFM have, also, been included. All the towns are important in their contributions, but we only had time for a couple.
We began in the ancient Roma citti (Roman city) of Pollentia. Today known as Pollenzo. Actually, it seems redundant to say ancient Roman city-they all are!! Pollenzo became a fort in the 2nd century B.C. There are ruins of a cemetery, an arena and parts of walls. Today, it is home to the University of Gastronomic Sciences (Universita deli Studi di Scienze Gastronomiche). Say that 3 times quickly! They offer a 1 year degree in Italian cooking, 3 year undergraduate degree and 14 month master’s level in cooking. However, there are degrees in food in the world, agricultural sustainability, Italian wine culture and more. I actually took some time to speak with a student. We may have to move here so that I can continue my degree! As a plus, the campus is gorgeous with all the medieval buildings and churches. Down the road is the commune of Cherasco-home to the really slow movement of the Slow Food Movement. It is the town of snail farming! Who knew? I thought that was in France. Live slow and learn! This little place is internationally known for its hybrid techniques breeding and raising the snails or chiocciole (kee-OH-chee-oh-lay) in Italiano. The town symbol is actually a snail. Just charming. There are other towns that tie in, but these two meant the most to me.
Finally, we come to Cuneo. It is called the mini Turino and justly so. The main Piazza di Galimberti looks almost identical to the magnificent Piazza Castello. Adjoining the piazza is a traffic free zone that includes Via Roma. We spent most of our time here exploring the many shops and other sights on this boulevard. Cuneo was founded in 1198 by the local population-not by the Romans! Throughout the years, however, it was dominated by different feuding states. In 1382, Cuneo was acquired by the Duchy of Savoy. It was maintained as a part of the house of Savoy until the Napoleonic Wars. Cuneo became the capital of the province in 1859, when Italy was unified. During WWII, it was one of the main centers of the resistance against the German occupation of Italy.
University
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